By Sean Palani, Director of Guest Services Barcelona Inman Park
When teams of Barcelona Restaurant employees venture off to Spain for what I like to call their “research and indulgopment” trips, we are tasked with having to choose a day to write about. When it came time for our latest trip, I excitedly chose Málaga as I had been there before, back in 2005, to attend “Escuela Espanol” and to partake in this “siesta” craze that so many people spoke of. And yes, I did enjoy the tapas, the vino and of course the locals, as well. I was eager to revisit a place that I fell in love with the second I got off of the Eurorail.
A quick geography lesson: Málaga is on the coast in Andalusia, lying on the Costa del Sol of the Mediterranean, about 130 km north of Africa. What most people don’t realize is that Málaga produces amazing sherries (fortified wines). Not just the kind most are used to cooking with, but sherry that pair with just about every course of a meal. My colleagues (and familia nueva) arrived by air Wednesday morning and were immediately taken to Bodega Alvear where Robert, a Dutchman who has been working for over 30 years, greeted us upon arrival.
He was quite proud to point out that his employment and his marriage were of equal length and one would not exist without the other. Our tour of Bodegas Alvear consisted of Robert showing us the old mechanical presses and mashers to the “new” updated electrical devices to make production much quicker. A tour into another building brought us to the “tenejas” or holding vessels made of concrete. These storage containers hold approx. 1,500 liters of sherry. They are temperature controlled within a protective building with fans for the summer time. A look down and you feel sorry for the person that must climb down and have to clean these things out.
This is where my co-worker Bart and I were labeled the “Cork Brothers,” as we would not fit down in the tenejas, but would only be useful to serve as corks. Venturing amongst the other buildings, we came to the room of liquid gold; the sherry storage casks, some dating back to 1830. Sherry uses a Solera system to ensure consistency amongst their sherries, and is a major quality control component, blending younger wines with older ones. I prefer Olorosos as they are not overly dry, are nutty with almond undertones and slightly rich. Pedro Jimenez or PX goes great over vanilla ice cream. It’s like fortified syrup.
Our tour concluded with lunch in the bodegas restaurant with the winemaker, the CFO, and Maria, an 8th generation employee. Lunch, or almuerzo, consisted of mouth-watering charcuteria, delicious olives, creamy croquetas, gazpacho con huevos, jamon y cebollas (which the CFO loved dunking his papas fritas into) and other tasty morsels. To say we got our fill would be an understatement. To top things off, we completed our meal with perfectly baked flan caramel and cafe con leche. After saying our goodbyes, we boarded our bus and headed to our hotel which was all arranged by the legend himself, Jorge Ordonez. My room in particular overlooked the Málaga skyline and their port.
A quick shower and meeting downstairs, we were met by Jorge himself and his right-hand men, Hans from Austria, Jack from Dedham, Mass and his driver Roberto. We were shuttled over to a beachside restaurant along the boardwalk which I roamed during my last visit. The restaurant itself is only 18m from the waters edge. As we all made our introductions, I ventured down to the pavillion where Guillme was skewering freshly-caught sardines on to bamboo to be roasted a few inches from a fire that was built in a now defunct row boat.
Acquaintances made, we all took our places at the table. I sat with Francisco and Javi, two of Jorge’s vineyard employees, along with my new and dear friend and partner in crime Ennio. To the far end, Jorge sat with Gretchen, our beloved wine and spirits director and tour guide, Jorge’s beautiful mother Consuela, his Cornell-attending son, Victor, Jorge’s sister Victoria who is also involved in the business, Hans, Jerry and my Barcelona family.
We started our seaside feast with a salad of lettuce, corn, tuna, egg, and olives. So simple, yet so perfect to start the meal. This was followed by those freshly-caught sardines that had just the perfect char. We ate them in the same style as rib-eating here is done in the South (down on the bone, across and sucking the ends). DELICIOUS. Next, clams on the half shell or almejas that sat in a juice of its own brine, salsa verde and pimientos. So savory, so delicate and so good. Just when it couldn’t get any better, prawns or gambas baked with sea salt came out. A squeeze of lemon and it was on to see quietly (and politely) who can get through them quicker.
After a brief tutorial from our local friends, Ennio and I did the imaginable. I think our table mates went easy on us. Now those who know me, know that I really don’t like working for my food. I skip the crab legs, peel-n-eat shrimp and yes, even lobster. De-shell it for me and its feast ON. Otherwise, I am all about convenience and not wasting time. Here though, I proudly worked through the gambas and most diligently (and expertly, I must say) through the langostas that came out. Preparation: quick bake with Maldeon sea salt and thats it. Keep it simple people.
Just when we thought we were finished, heaping plates of salmonettes (a small fried redfish, and food of the Roman Empire) and one of my favorites, pececillos (lightly battered, then flash-fried) best eaten mixed up with roasted pimientos. Que rico!!! All of this washed down, of course, by beautifully selected Jorge Ordonez-approved wines. After dinner, hugs and good-byes, we all made our way back to the main center for drinks before heading in for the night (some of us, note my table-mates here and I) stayed out a bit later, chatting up locals over drinks.
The next morning, after a wonderful and comfortable nights sleep, our shuttle and Alicia met us to take us to the Jorge Ordonez vineyard which was set upon sloping terrain, overlooking the Mediterranean and from what I am told, are able to see Africa on a clear day. The vineyard left no land unplanted which is miraculously harvested by hand and mule. After our tour we made our way to the tasting “house”; a gorgeously designed, modest Spanish home overlooking Southern Málaga. Cava, reds and whites were all sampled. Mostly we had the pleasure of “sipping” the night before, but the highlight of the day was trying a a 2012, unfortified sweet Muscat that was the only Spanish wine to ever be served at a Nobel Peace Prize Dinner. What a treat.
Upon my return to the states, I will oft be asked what my favorite part of my trip was, from my wife-my favorite food and from my staff-what experience to share with them and our guests. To all of whom, with a grand smile, a full stomach and emotional contentment, I will simply reply, all of it. I will share stories with our employee pre-shifts, with my guests as I make my nightly rounds throughout the restaurant. My dear friend (and our chef) Happy and I will do our best to replicate recipes, we will coordinate a party to celebrate the flavors of Spain and will most definitely enjoy our siestas in between. Gracias, Málaga. Hasta la próxima vez. (Until next time).
