By Eric Harris, Wine Steward, Barcelona West Hartford
My second day in Spain began with an interesting acknowledgment. We would, in one day, be in a city, at the beach, and up in the mountains. Our day started with a light breakfast at the Central Market in Valencia. After that, we went to get our matching Mini Coopers from Hertz as we all made references to filming the Italian Job 2: The Spanish Job. We took a gorgeous drive down the coast to our first destination, Lo Golero. As we exited a main road in Delta del Ebro, we were greeted with a long dirt road, a gorgeous view of the beach, and a quaint beachfront restaurant.
The seafood there, as you can imagine, was outstanding. The mussels, unaccompanied by sauce, were possibly the best I’ve ever had. The Clams Lo Golero was a dish fitting to take their name. Simply done with a sauce of breadcrumbs, garlic, olive oil and almond, they were so full of flavor the table fell silent for a brief moment. The silence was broken by a chorus of pleasured groans. Amongst all the amazing food we had, there was one of my favorites of the entire trip: smoked eel montaditos. It was just smoked eel and marinated tomatoes on a small crostini. As we all discussed that the beauty of Spanish cuisine is not in the preparation, but rather in the pure expression of amazing ingredients, this really drove the point home. The flavor packed into that perfect little bite sent tingling sensations shooting right through my brain. Lo Golero will not soon be forgotten.
After saying goodbye to our very friendly hosts, we headed off towards the mountains. Leaving our coastal drive, we found ourselves climbing in elevation. Even having never been to Spain, I could feel it as we drove; we were almost in Montsant. As we arrived at Celler Laurona, we are greeted warmly and whisked away to take a tour of the vineyard. They take us to their newest vineyard filled with Garnacha, Syrah, and Cabernet. Looking over the gorgeous scene we all started to feel a little chill and decided to head back to the winery to taste some wine. First, we tried the Laurona Blanc, which has just made its way to our list. This is a white wine made from the red grape, Garnacha Tinta. It had bright fruit with nice white flower undertones, and a delicious herbal note on the nose and palate. After, I was disappointed learn that they would no longer be making 6 Vinyes, which is one of my favorite wines on our list. My disappointment quickly turned to elation, however, as we tried their newest wine, Plini. Plini, named after Gaius Plinius Secondus, whose words can be read on the label of all of their wines, was quite a treat. It was bold and elegant all in the same sip, showing dark fruits, sweet spice, and a ton of complexity. As always, Laurona Never disappoints.
Departing another set of gracious hosts, we were off to dinner at Cal Xim in Sant Pau. Cal Xim is one of only four restaurants in Sant Pau, each at least forty years old. Cal Xim is a family run restaurant. This was immediately evident by the atmosphere. Warmly greeted and sat in clear view of the sparkling kitchen, we were treated with as much hospitality as one could ever expect. The owner walked through all of his favorite dishes and wines on the menu with pure elation in his voice. He was truly excited to share everything they had to offer with us.
Sticking with our theme in Spain, we proceeded to enjoy delicious food and fantastic wines. As the cava flowed to start the meal, everyone reflected on the two days in Spain that had come to pass. With over 40 years of history, Cal Xim clearly knew what they were doing. We enjoyed make-it-yourself pan con tomate, crispy leg of lamb, peas with morcilla and pork belly, and roasted artichokes. The artichokes were another shining example of the simplicity of the great food in Spain. It was simply slow roasted over a wood fire and then olive oil and salt were poured into the center. As each layer was pulled away and gnawed on, the flavors grew. Finally, we reached the heart of the artichoke and it exploded with flavor. Everything from the simplicity of the seasoning, the freshness of the ingredients, to the perfect char on the artichoke shone through in every bite.
To finish our meals we enjoyed some delicious dessert wines, including a wine made just about a mile away at Albet i Noya. After dinner, our hosts invite us to take a walk through the kitchen, so our chefs can nerd-out with theirs about everything that makes the magic happen. Day 2 was complete and we were off to bed. With a full belly and a happy heart, my mind wandered towards Day 3: winery day.
